Auckland
We accidentally discovered a gem. Walking from Parnell toward Auckland Quay we came upon the National Library of New Zealand. Thinking it was a library we thought we would check to see if they had Internet.

The National Library of New Zealand is a resource center for teachers. A librarian, originally from Florida and now a New Zealand citizen, gave us a tour. Teachers can make requests to this national resource center and have materials shipped on loan. They inservice educators. They also offer on-line assistance to teachers and students.

On the ground floor there was a commissioned exhibit on the Haka. This Māori dance and chant, adopted by the All Blacks rugby team, was documented in photos, film, and text. Great effort was made to cite the historical and cultural meaning of the Haka. The photos and films compiled from the Natioanal Archives are available on-line.

After visiting the Quay and the Info Center we stopped at Mac’s Brewery’s Northern Steamship Co. All manner of floor and table lamps were inverted and affixed to the ceiling, their lampshades forming chandeliers.

March 1
We found the Parnell Library and free WIFI as well as an Apple Store. Following a walkabout, we cycled Tamaki Drive and points along the harbors SE of Auckland.

It became apparent that we weren’t yet back in Iowa when the weather forecast included phrases such as: “weather bomb”, “destructive gale force winds” & “Tie things down, stay away from estuaries at high tide”. Sounds as if Saturday will be interesting.

Wellington
The last time we were in Wellington the wind was blowing so hard it was hard to stand up; today the weather was perfect, the sun was shining with only the slightest breeze. Marsha and I repeated two favorites the first, Joe’s Garage for great coffee and the “Local Breakfast” a filling mixed platter of breakfast favorites. The second, the Te Papa Museum, a wonderfully diverse museum featuring geological, cultural, and natural history exhibits.

The earthquake and volcano exhibits help you get a feel for New Zealand’s unique status along the Australian and Pacific plates. Along the Alpine Fault, Christchurch is moving SW, while Hokitika on the other side of the fault is moving NE. In the last 60 years they have moved 1500 mm away from each other.

The marine, plant, bird, and fossil exhibits give you additional insights into New Zealand. The Maori and island culture exhibits gripped me more than the war and early settler displays.

Te Papa is free.

The Te Papa has a distinctive logo- a thumbprint. The thumbprint represents it’s identity and has a central whorl that is the Maori symbol meaning birth or renewal. Adrian, our friend in the Netherlands, whose expertise is in designing identities, would appreciate the simplicity and elegance of this logo.

With better weather we spent time on the waterfront. All of Wellington comes to the waterfront for lunch in the sunshine. There are business men, ties loosened sans coats sitting on benches and steps with their take-out lunches or in cafe’s or restaurants. Business women doing the same, enjoying the same waterfront parks and views.

Some very well dressed people attended a private Oscars party at the Fox Glove, complete with two very large golden Oscar statues at the entrance. New Zealanders are contenders in visual effects and music. (We later found out that Bret McKenzie from Wellington won the Oscar for best original song for his work on “The Muppets” movie.)

In the late afternoon the harbor was alive with dragon boats, kayaks, sculls, sailboats, and the peculiar stand-up water board that uses a very long paddle. Street performers staked out their territory and wooed crowds.

Auckland
We didn’t have enough days to cycle tour to Auckland for our return flight so we chose to take a 12 hour Trans Scenic Overland train trip from Wellington to Auckland and do some day excursions from a base in Auckland.

Havelock – Picton
We savored our last cycle touring day on the South Island. The Queen Charlotte Drive (the scenic route) was a twisting series of overlooks of small bays complete with sailboats, pleasure craft, and fishing boats. Our leisurely ride in brilliant sunshine provided multiple photo opportunities culminating in a downhill into Picton as the Islander Ferry was departing. Small white sailboats strung out in a line raced into and back out of the harbor appearing and disappearing as they raced in an almost single file line.

Along the way we had a surprise, going the opposite direction we came upon Fumie, our friend from Japan. We chatted for a while and caught up on where each of us have been since our last encounter.

 
We have booked the Islander for tomorrow and a room at the YHA in Wellington for tomorrow night.

Havelock
Tonight we are in Havelock, the Green Shell Mussel Capital of the World. Green Shell Mussels are only found in NewZealand and the Slip Inn is the best place to eat these local mussels and the region’s fresh seafood. That’s not just my opinion, they were voted best cafe in Marlborough.

We waited out some very bad weather in Nelson. Nelson is quite the place to wait out rain and wind, easy access to restaurants and grocery, beautiful gardens, and covered walkways in much of the commercial area. During the worst of the wind and rain we each spent our time sitting in our window opposite the park reading mystery novels.

We also found our favorite coffee barista at Robert Harris. She wrote “Enjoy NZ” and drew flowers and fern leaves in the foam of our cappuccino. Naturally we had to go back to our room and get a camera.

Everyone has a story
Bill Reed is a helicopter pilot, contracted through an air service, for a hospital. While Bill is touring New Zealand he is contemplating an offer in Saudi Arabia. It would be one month on/one month off, with free air fare anywhere he wants to go on his month off. Bill also shared helicopter stories of his time on a tuna fishing boat flying search patterns, scouting for tuna.

Nelson
Our route into Nelson had two climbs, Hope Saddle & Spooner’s Saddle. Each climb was followed by long downhill runs. The views were terrific and I was struck by the history of the area. We passed through pine forests, forests as far as you could see in any direction – all managed, planted from seeds originally brought from California. It seems such a contrast to the constant efforts to eradicate non-native species.

We are staying at Accents on the Park Backpackers, centrally located in Nelson.

Reflections
We are so glad that we didn’t let the profile maps in our Pedaler’s Paradise cycle guide dissuade us from coming this way. Expecting today’s ride to be tough we were surprised that it was a pleasant river-grade up. There was a small constant elevation gain with none if the rolling losses of elevation we have experienced elsewhere.

Tonight we are staying at Hu-Ha Bikepacker. A farmhouse overlooking the highway. We have a nice room and the porch and dining area overlook the valley. There isn’t any food here and knowing that we have brought some with us. Colorado Bill is the only other guest.

The unexpected ease of today’s ride got us to Hu-Ha by 11:30 – so we are reading, writing, doing research, and relaxing.

Punakaiki – Westport – Murchison

The ride up the west coast is magnificent, beautiful rocky shoreline with crashing surf. The Pancake Rocks are well known striated rock formations that produce blowholes at high tide. The weather threatened rain so we sought shelter only to find everything booked. 

The campground host wasn’t on site so we set up our tent in T11, only to find out later a camper-van had claimed the spot. When they returned we weren’t about to move a wet tent in the rain. Fortunately they were able to adjust.

We biked back to the Pancake Rocks at high tide to observe the blowhole activity. Trapped air sounds like thunder as the waves strike the eroding rock overhangs.

Several climbs and overlooks later we moved inland and the vegetation changed to forest. Farther inland the climate became drier. Sightings of solo self-contained cyclists increased, but we only encountered one, Bill from Colorado, going our direction. After a series of climbs we reached Westport.

Westport wasn’t what either of us had expected. It was more of a working town, not a tourist town, and without a harbor type of feel to it. The Trip Inn Hostel was a century old white posted two-story home. Extensive decking and additional rooms had been added to the property. It had lovely gardens. Later in the day Bill checked in to the same spot.

Westport to Murchison is 97 K. There really isn’t anywhere to stay in between. The route travels through the Buller Gorge. The first 48 K is river grade up. We grabbed a burger in Inangahua, the only food option for the day. The final 49 K was much tougher. We only needed to gain 300 meters, but the rolling tough climbs meant that we would gain elevation only to give it back and have to regain it over and over again.The Lazy Cow Backpackers was a welcomed sight entering Murchison. Phil greeted us with chocolate chip banana muffins and a double ensuite.

Hokitika

Marsha and I are sitting out a rainy day in Hokitika, the Jade capital of New Zealand, reminiscing about the past few days and planning the next.

While in Fox we took a guided tour of Fox Glacier. Our guide, Bia, was born in San Palo, Brazil. She was exceptional. Fox Glacier has nine feeder glaciers. In terms of glaciers, Fox is a sprinter, ten times faster than most other glaciers. The snow field (neve) is the size of Christchurch; getting 11 meters of snow per year. The area gets 200 days of precipitation per year. It takes five to seven years for snow falling on the top to reach the terminal moraine at the bottom, moving as much as a meter per day. Last week during a heavy rain they lost a hundred meters off the bottom when there was a collapse. Markers, as well as distinctive natural scars and regrowth patterns, mark the advances and retreats of the glacier.We met Drew and Lucy on our glacial tour. Lucy is a geologist and Drew a pilot.They are cycle touring in the opposite direction. Unfortunately, Lucy is having Achilles tendon problems, which became very evident as she became more and more uncomfortable hiking on the glacier. They are staying at the same Ivory Towers Backpackers that Ben, Marsha, and I are staying.

Three tough climbs separate Fox Glacier from Franz Josef Glacier. Though only 24 K it was enough; especially with Franz Josef’s potential attractions. Ben Booker, our Isle of Man Ben, started 10-15 minutes before us. The climb started immediately. The first two climbs longer and with switchbacks. After the crest of the second we came upon Ben at the side of the road. The hanger or mount to his rear dérailleur had broken off – he had no choice but to thumb a ride to Franz Josef. Unable to do anything we expressed our regrets and cycled on. Three cyclist standing on the edge of the road only made his catching a ride more difficult. Ben’s lift honked as they passed us going into Franz Josef.

After checking into the Franz Josef YHA we found Ben sitting at a restaurant on the main street. Ben’s day had gotten worse. There wasn’t a bicycle shop (not only in Franz Josef but anywhere for over a hundred kilometers); the mt. bike rental didn’t have any parts; and the activity Ben most wanted to do – ice climbing was fully booked for the next three days. Ben kept his cool, drank a beer, and researched options on his iPad.

Inquiries at the Franz Josef Glacial Walk informed us that the walks were booked for the next day. The gal at the desk said the glacier was receding and that the terminal moraine was ugly. She thought Fox Glacier was much prettier. Though not much of a salesperson, she was convincing – we decided to move on.

After checking with Ben on his options we told him of our plans. We really enjoyed Ben and wished him well. He will keep us informed as his plan takes shape – for now he is staying in Franz Josef and thinking it through.